On the Road to Carlton

Carlton, Oregon has become a center for wine and has as many tasting rooms, wineries, and eateries as any small town I have ever been to. Today I plan to visit a few that are open this time of year and take some tasting notes. Seven of Hearts, Luminous Hills, and Alexana have already donated a bottle each but I may just pop in for a taste anyway.
My main targets today will be Carlton Cellars, Ghost Hill, Solena, and a couple of others that I hope are open, like the Carlton Winemakers Studio, Cana's Feast, and Cliff Creek.

First stop, Cana's Feast for a visit with my face-book buddy Jason, winemaker, tasting room dude, and soon to be Australian traveler and wine maker. He served up a tasting of all the wines that were out and one that was not. First in line was a new Pinot Noir. An 08, from the Gran Moraine vineyard due east of Carlton up high with sedimentary soils. This wine shows lots of red fruit in the nose with earthy tones. Dry mouth feel and a hint of chocolate and toast over red berry. Nice $20 Pinot Noir, and it will age well, say 5-7 years.
Watch this space for notes tonight.
Next came one of my old favorites, the '07 Barbera. This wine is all blackberry nose with a hint of blackberry layered over more blackberry. Taste? Guess. Love this one and it is not as simple as I might let on. It is a deep dark wine with layer after layer of infused dark fruit, spice and wood. 
 I then tasted the surprise wine, an '09 Counoise , a blending grape grown primarily in the Rhône valley,
used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
It was light, low tannin, subtle, and a surprise. 

As we were chatting a couple came in and started their round of tastes. They were from North Carolina and were both retired school teachers from New York.Mel and Moreen Hauser. Very nice to talk opera with them as we are both going to Portland Opera Thursday night to see Turandot. Small world indeed!
They had been driving upp the west coast stopping in various wineries along the way and had come to Carlton for much the same reason had I.
The '07 Sangiovasi was next and was also the wine Cana's feast donated this year. A full bodied, raspberry taste with rich ripe notes of soft black fruits and a long pleasant finish of spice at the back of the tongue.
We tasted the '07 and '06 Syrahs back to back and as neither was even a little spineless, it was quite a match up;,the '06 leather and wood with black raspberry fruit, long soft tones of spice and earth. The '07 was blended with a bit of Viognier to mellow it and give it polish. It was a much more formal Syrah with hibiscus on the nose and a blueberry and plum taste. Lovely wine!

When I left I told the Hausers to make sure they stopped at Alexana for a taste and I headed there for my next adventure. Christie had given me a bottle of the '08 Shea vineyard Pinot Noir on my last trip through but I had no time to taste so today was all about taking time.
The two whites, a '09 Pinot Gris from the Revana vineyard and a  Riesling from  the same vineyard were a nice change from all the big heavy reds I had been sipping. The pinot Gris fills the nose with light dry straw and bright fruits followed by semi-sweet tastes of pear, spiced tea, and green apple. Soft mouth feel with a lingering spice finish. Lovely wine.
The '09 Riesling was a bit of a surprise! I lived in Germany and was used to that diesel or kerosene smell when I first opened a bottle of really fine Riesling. This one has just a hint of that smell followed by burnt sugar, apricot, and gives way to soft peach and white peach. I bought a bottle to take home and hide from myself for a few years.
All these wines are made by Lynn Penner-Ash and show her skill, especially the '08 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir. There is little I can say about this wine that would do it justice, high score from the wine mags, smokey black ripe fruit with chocolate and earth and spiced coffee finish. I could taste this for days and get a new hit every time. Truly an Oregon Pinot Noir!

Newberg and Carlton

On my way back from Portland, after visiting Gallery 903 to check out a possible purchase, I stopped at Anam Cara's new tasting room. Just as you turn right off 99 on to 240 out of Newberg you will see the new signs on the right. I was so pleased to see it but I had one caveat: they are next to Jem 100 Ice Cream Saloon, a malt shop that has THE BEST malts I have had in years. I have found it very difficult to make your taste buds behave after a burger and chocolate malt so be sure to go there AFTER you taste the wines!
With that in mind, and due to the fact that Sheila was rushing out to give a tasting, I just collected a bottle of their wonderful 2007 Nicholas Estate Pinot noir they gave us and did not take the time to taste.
This is very typical of the '07 Pinot Noir that was so maligned by short sighted people and has now proven to be elegant, delicate, and complex. I love this wine and this year. There are of course a few that were just not ever going to work themselves out but they are few and far between.
This '07 did very well: 94 points in PinotReport, 90 points from Wine Advocate and 88 points from Wine Enthusiast I will return soon and enjoy a taste.
Driving past all the winery signs between Newburg and Carlton made me realize what a chore I have in front of me. Some friends laugh and make fun of the "job" I have chosen to do again this year but it is work. I have met the most wonderful people, tasted the best wines, and actually worked in a few of the wineries picking, sorting, pruning, doing punch downs, and bottling. This has given me a real respect for all that goes in to making the "One Bottle" I am asking for.
When I arrived at Carlton I was very excited to find Seven of Hearts open and pouring! I usually miss them because I try and not go gathering on the weekends. The wineries are busy and don't have time to be interrupted by someone begging for "one Bottle".

 Byron Dooly, owner and winemaker, was there with some of his club members. I bought a Lavender dark chocolate with a dusting of sea salt from Byron's wife and partner Dana, who creates wonders for the palette (and matches fine chocolates to the wines!) under the name Honest Chocolates and waited for a taste.
My reward came with a sip of the Viognier and Roussanne blend that took me by surprise! Such a great balance of flavors and structure. It has the delicacy of the Viognier and the backbone of the Roussanne. This is a wine that recalls the great whites of the Rhone valley.
We went through the entire selection and I must say, none of the wines disappointed but some stood out as wines I could have a passion for. The Chatte D'Avignon Grenache and Syrah blend is outstanding. A soft, firm, and warn flavor with a strong earthy base. long finish with all kinds of fruits and flowers along the way. Byron writes in his blog::

   It’s a treat to have the opportunity to work with 15-year-old Grenache and Syrah vines situated on ideal    sites — truly reminiscent of the regions where these varietals initially gained their reputation in the Rhone Valley of France — right along the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge. All the elements that make those wines great there, are present here as well: the heat, the moderating influence of the river, the winds (much like the Mistral winds of the Rhone Valley), and the gravelly sandy soil).

These are special wines because they have a lot of soul. The Syrah is more of a northern Rhone meaty, earthy expression than the more fruity expression you may have come to know. The Grenache is the one that brings the fruit to the party. The truth is both of these were acquired to make the blend, something that reflects some of my favorite red Rhone wines, such as Chateauneuf du Pape that is dominated by the elegance of Grenache, but with enough Syrah to give it penetrating depth and backbone.more
After we were done with the Seven of Hearts he moved us on to the Luminous Hills wines. These are estate grown Pinot noirs that show  a very complex and educational range of tastes depending on what lot they are from, the clones used, and the treatment during processing. Here is what Byron has to say:
   The Luminous Hills “silver label” utilizes the 667 from the higher elevation volcanic soil in Luminous Hills vineyard to give it its bright fruit expression.  Darker, spicier notes are derived from the 115 clone on the lower elevation sedimentary soil.  A little bit of whole cluster Pommard (20%) rounds it out and gives it its fleshy quality.  
And about the Gold, which he gave for the auction along with the D'Avignon Grenache and Syrah.:

   LUX, or the “gold label”, is a special selection, much smaller production, from select parts of the Luminous Hills vineyard.  A favorite clonal combination comprised of a big foundation of Pommard from the lower sedimentary part of the vineyard, providing the bass notes, but with enough 777 off the higher elevation volcanic soil to give it high tone structure and lift.  50% whole cluster fermentation.  
His new sign, attached to the front of his hand made wooden counter fools the eyes. You will have to go by and see how it is made, and of course taste all his wonderful wines along with Ana' Chocolates.

Before I left town I stopped over at Alexana Winery's elegant tasting room located 116 West Main for a quick visit with Christie Shertzer. The wines they make are consistently wonderful! Lynn  Penner-Ash is the winemaker  I ask if they would again this year be willing to donate "One Bottle" for the cause and she said "Of course!".  I ask for a bottle of the Shea vineyard '08 Pinot noir. This wine was given 94 points from Wine Advocate and 92 from Wine Spectator! We will add this bottle to a set of wines made from Dick Shea's grapes and create a really exciting package for the highest bidder. I can't wait to come back next week and taste through all the wines.
My next trip will be south to Elkton and Roseburg.

Dundee, Carlton, McMinville and in Between

After a panic level morning of racing to the dealer to have them repair my air conditioning and the driving to Carlton by 11:30 to meet my friend Kelly Fox, I was exuberant when she presented me with a bottle of her Momtazi Pinot Noir. (reviewed here) 

Most winemakers dream of having their own eponymous label at some time in their career. Kelley Fox has been crafting wines in Oregon for ten years including terms at Hamacher, The Eyrie Vineyards and Torii Mor. Since 2005, she has been co-winemaker with Scott Wright at Scott Paul Wines, where she emulates the style of elegant Pinot Noir that her mentor at The Eyrie Vineyards, David Lett, taught her. As she notes on her website, www.kelleyfoxwines.com,    “What I love most about Pinot is its transparency. I prefer authenticity and even grit to armchair idealism. Pinot does this. There is something so real about it, for the better or the worse.” With the 2007 vintage, along with her father, Gerson Stearns, she has launched Kelley Fox Wines. Two vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs from Momtazi Vineyard and Maresh Vineyard have already created a buzz among pinot aficionados. The tiny production will have a small window of availability. Contact Michael Alberty at www.StorytellerWine.com in Portland, Oregon (503-206-7029, 800-753-2531).


2007 Kelley Fox Wines Momtazi Vineyard McMinnville Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13% alc., 133 cases, $39, screw cap. Sourced from a 10-year-old block of Dijon 113 and 115 clones. Bio-dynamically-farmed vineyard. · Light garnet color in glass. Mineral-infused aromas of cherries with a whiff of iron, wet stone and funk. Discreetly composed core of earth-dusted dark red fruits, especially bright, juicy cherries. Moderate tannins with balancing acidity. Very good and recommended. 

After visiting at Scott Paul I went over to  Ken Wright Cellars and see what  he had put aside for us. I was thrilled when he gave a '05 Abbot Claim and a '02 Tyrus Evan Claret. Tyrus Evan's tasting room is just across the street so I went over to taste the reds and get pricing for the donations. I am always impressed by Ken's skill in wine making. I had an argument with a fellow the other night at UVA wine bar about the effects of "place" on the grape and therefore the wine. The best example I had for him was the Syrahs from Tyrus Even: one from Del Rio and one from the Columbia Valley. These two wines, made from the same grape, are as far apart in smell, taste, and feel, as any I have tasted. Both are outstanding but one (Dell Rio) is earthy and richly fruity while the other is cleaner, brighter, and has a more complex back taste.
Carrie Simonson led me through the reds before I had to rush off to visit Troon and Alexana. Here she is holding the 'o2 Claret.

Lunch at Cielo Blue was Polo Scallopini with a nice Pinot noir. Fantastic! Perfectly done pasta tasty local chicken, and lots of bacon, artichoke, and sauce.

Relaxed, well fed, and determined to get a couple more bottles before the sun went down, I set out across the street to visit Alexana.  
(from the web site) Alexana Wines was born of Dr. Madaiah Revana’s love of the great wines of Burgundy. In the spring of 2005, Dr. Revana began a search for both the ideal region and an experienced winemaker with the goal of making Pinot Noirs that could rival those from Burgundy. His search ended in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where he met Lynn Penner-Ash .(More)

I met the Dr. at the IPNC this year and he promised a bottle so as soon as he gets done traveling I will be bringing back one of his exquisite wines. They also have a lovely tasting room. Kelda tasted me through the wines and I must say they are amazing, My favorite is the '07 Revana Vineyard Pinot noir. I was impressed by the grassy, floral notes and the spicy red fruit . It received a 92 from Parker and a 91 from Wine Spectator.

I had to rush over to Newburg and out to Sineann cellars to pick up Peter's donation. I had no idea what he had in mind. When I got there Russ was working in the lab and called Peter to see which bottle to hand over. He ran upstairs and came back with a CASE of '07 Lachini Pinot noir.
Blackberry and black fruit are prominent in this dark, dark  Pinot. Brown spice nutmeg  in both the nose and flavor.
I was overwhelmed! This will mean a huge amount for the OMP auction.
As I left I took this shot of the valley as the day began to fade.

Last stop of the day was Chehalem Winery where I met Deanna. She lead me through a tasting of the Chardonnays. I really love the whites they produce. They are crisp, steely, and clean with lots of texture and complexity. They gave a bottle of the INOX, as they did last year, and I bought a bottle to enjoy with fruit and cheese at a friends house later that night.
I had dinner at Press Wine Bar and met Jack Hasting and
Chris Burrough who work at Domaine Drouhin and after a great meal and some good conversation, they invited me for a tour of the winery and offered a bottle of their fine wine. We arranged to meet at the winery in the morning.