Harvest at Ghost Hill

Wednesday began on a bit of a sour note. Linda was backed up in meeting and we were trying to get on the road to Carlton to help sort fruit. As we got ready to leave, barely in time to make it up there at a reasonable time, we opened the garage door to fine our more adventurous cat had secreted himself in the garage while I was taking this out to the car. Out he went under the garage door the moment it opened. To say I was upset would be a ...well, let's just say I am glad there were no small children within earshot. Linda, ever calm and present, walked out and found him enjoying hide and seek in the garden, and after a short chase, he stopped in the dry leaves in the gutter and had a good roll. She calmly went over and picked him up. Back in the house, dusty and happy, and we were getting later and later.
We made it up in record (well not quite record time, after all, Linda was in the car with me) time and dashed in to Horse Radish for a plate of Hummus and salad.
Rebecca (seen above trying NOT to fall in) , the winemaker for Ghost Hill, was all ready for us, gave us our stations, and in came the grapes.
We were using the facility at Carlton Cellars, owned by my friend Dave Grooters and his partner/ wife Robin Russel, and were under the gun to finish and have things cleaned up so the next batch could come in.

The picking began at 11:00 on the Bayliss- Bower vineyard and we had Wädenswil on the sorting table by 1:00. The clusters were huge and firm. I tasted a few random grapes and I was amazed by the development in structure and complexity. These had a semisweet flavor bursting with rich,lush flavors of blue fruit, spice, pepper, and a soft mouthfeel. The seeds were brown and the skins were dense but not overly thick.. Very pleasant hint of acid.
We found very little botrytis as the leaves had been cut back to avoid standing water on the fruit and there very few unripe clusters.

Next came the 777 and man was it intense! This grape usually has a sweet, dark juice and a firm fruit with a thicker skin than other Pinot Noir grapes. These were no exception, rather, they were some of the finest firmest, most flavor filled 777 grapes I have ever tasted. Dark fruit, thicker, chewier skin with none of the usual bitterness, just a slight acidic feel on the tooth. This is going to be an exceptional year. We found a bit more mold deep in the clusters but still very little. The smaller more conical clusters were larger this year due to more hang time and because of the intense dropping of fruit done for the development of the best possible fruit. Most vineyard dropped fruit to 1 cluster per stem.

After a short break we started in on the 114 and I was amazed at the cluster size in these bins. The fruit, being thinner skinned than the 777, was easy to burst and the flavors were sweet and rich, not from high brix, usually higher in this clone, but from the long cool maturation that took place.
This is called physiological ripeness (or physiological maturity) of grapes is a relatively recent addition to the discussion of ripeness in viticulture and winemaking. The phrase has become a "catch all" term used to describe other factors in the development of ripening grapes that affect a wine's quality beyond the standard measurements of sugars, acids and pH. These factors generally includes evaluating the ripeness of tannins as well as the development of other phenolic compounds that contribute to the color, flavor and aroma of wine. In many ways, the concept of physiological ripeness is similar to the French term Engustment (from the Latin root gustis or taste) which denotes the stage of ripening when aroma and flavor become apparent. Research has shown that most aroma compounds develop in the berry in glycosylated form as secondary metabolites which occur late in ripening as the build up of sugars have leveled. This stage is distinct from the sugar/acid interactions of ripening because it is possible for a grape to be "ripe" in the context of sugar and acid levels but still be very immature when it comes to the development of tannins, aromas and flavor that characteristic a complex or quality wine.

For the most part, many of these qualities are difficult to objectively measure so evaluation of the physiological ripeness of grapes is centered around observing and physically sampling the grapes. With experience winemakers and viticulturists learn to associate certain taste and characteristics with different stages of development. They evaluate the skin and pulp texture of the berry as well as the color of skins, seeds and stems. If the seeds are still green, the tannins inside the grape are more likely to be harsh and bitter. As the tannins continue to develop, the seeds start darkening in color. They will observe the lignification of the stems as they turn from being flexible and green to hard, woody and brown (for many varieties but not all) indicating that vine has completed its work in developing its "offspring" grape clusters and has started to store carbohydrates and resources for its next growing season. During the ripening period winemakers and viticulturists will continually sample grapes throughout the vineyard in the weeks and days leading up to harvest. ^{(from an article in Wickipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripeness_in_viticulture)}

Absolutely joyful flavors.The smell of these grape filled the winery as they were crushed.
On to the last and my surprise favorite, Pommard. The clusters were small and had good brown stems on much of the grapes. The taste of these was what I will call meaty. Dense, ripe, smooth, and satisfyingly flavorful. I could eat bowls of these for breakfast. Very little sweetness, just that mature taste mentioned above.
The last tank was filled with a blend and we selected whole cluster with brown stems for the tank. Can't wait to try that one.
After a few hours of clean up, we bade farewell and headed in to Dundee for a bite at Dundee Bistro. There are so many fine places to eat but I had my heart set on the deconstructed clam chowder.

Manilla Clam Chowder with Mussels & Fuji Apples
fingerling, applewood bacon, leeks, cream & spinach 16

I was not disappointed. I had it with a glass of the 2009 PONZI Willamette Valley. Perfectly balanced, not to sweet and held its own against the apple and cream tastes.
A long drive home with a 1977 performance from the Met of Il Trovatore on the radio, ending the day on a fine note.
There are few things more wonderful than having your hands in the wine you will one day drink!
Mark my words: This WILL be the best year Oregon has seen for developed flavors and character of the wines. This will be the benchmark!

Quick Visit to Carlton

Salud! holds an auction every year and sell various items to raise money for the health care of our migrant workers, without whom we would have little wine to enjoy.  This year I have been ask to create ten etchings in an edition of ten to be auctioned off to help raise money. I was honored and have been driving around capturing images to make in to photographic etchings. I also plan to do one of each on wood, gold leafed and framed, as I did for the dismally advertised "Art of Wine" at the Jordan Schnitzer Museum. They were supposed to work to bring tourists in to Lane County to sample our wines...
Oh well.
Anyway, on Wednesday I took one of my studio assistant, who just turned 21, on a tasting trip up the valley with stops along the way.
Left Coast Cellars is one of the most beautifully presented wineries in Oregon. The setting is stunning and the landscaping is perfect. They also have a large solar array and a very good restaurant
They also have a set of fountains that help hydrate the local bee population. As we walked up to the tasting room I looked over and saw a few dozen bees on each fountain happily sipping, then flying off to be replaced with more thirsty companions. I guess I had never really thought about them drinking. Seems appropriate that they have their own tasting room.
We tasted through the whites and I was struck by the depth and complexity of the '07 Chardonnay.

This wine is 100% barrel fermented and has a huge nose of pear and fruit blossoms with a taste of fresh pear and quince jam. There is a hint of pie spices balanced with good acid, a slight mineral after taste, and the overall feel of the wine is elegant and rich. I highly recommend this one. 
 Next one the list of must haves are really ANY of the '08 Pinot Noir. They are all outstanding and complex and all are worth the stop. It is not often that I enjoy every wine I taste but today was an exception.
While you are there, sit down and enjoy some of the wonderful food they prepare on site. Read the article about Oregon's restaurant/ winery news. 
While we were there over a dozen people, from farm hands to tourists came and went, praising the food and the wines. 

We made a quick stop at Bethel Heights to get a picture for an etching. They are one of the major sponsors of Salud! and are on this years list for my donation. I took a few shots and I think I have settled on an image of their wisteria and a view Northeast through the vineyards. I have time and lots of reasons to stop back and try another image.
We drove up through Amity then to Carlton where we were treated to my all time favorite taste treat! Republic of Jam was closed for production and restocking but they let me in and gave Saga a sample of their wares. You can tell by her reaction that she enjoyed the tastes! I ended up buying Blueberry Lavender Jam and Lemon Caraway soda syrup,. I am told that the bartender at  Thistle makes a drink with it involving bourbon that is out of this world! ( last night we tried some shaken with Gin and did not find it lacking ;).
 Next door at Horseradish we had a bowl of soup and a hot sandwich , and of course a glass of great Oregon Pinot Noir. As we sat down at the back bar Ryan showed me a wine I had not heard of nor tasted, Zimri Cellars '06 Pinot Noir. This is an outstanding wine. Rich and deep with a huge nose and wonderful mouthfeel and finish. I was very impressed, and at $30, it is under-priced!

 While we were waiting for our meal Saga found something very special, her own wine!
When we finished we left through the back door and walked over to visit with Dave at Carlton Cellars and taste some of his fine wines.

More on that when I get back from a meeting!

Dave tasted us through his lineup staring with his very tasty and very complex Pinot Gris. This wine has lime and white pear with a little flinty mineral in the nose and a rich dry taste. I really enjoy this wine.
Next we tasted the rose and it surprised me a bit. I had had last years and enjoyed it but this one is far more interesting. Lots of strawberry, hints of flowers, and a very interesting taste that changes rapidly as you taste again. I scored a bottle just for a little sip out on the deck this weekend.
Next came the lineup of the Pinot Noir .
Seven Devils is the everyday, house wine that you keep for the acquaintance (if you can keep your hands of it). This is a gentle, rich wine with a slow start and a long finish. Great food pairing as it has brighter fruits and a lot of ripe blackberry and cherry. In the short time it has been in bottle it has changed a lot. I can't wait to taste it again in a few months.
Roads End Pinot Noir is ina class of its own. The gift that keeps on giving, and if anyone tries to tell you that filtering ruins the complexity and structure of wine, let them taste this one! Here is what Parker had to say:

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate concurred, giving the 2006 Roads End a 90-point score that identifies it as "An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines." Dr. Jay Miller writes in his October, 2008 review:

"The 2006 Pinot Noir Roads End spent 10 months in French oak. Medium/dark ruby-colored, it reveals an attractive perfume of cedar, black cherry, and black raspberry. This leads to a layered, smooth-textured wine with plenty of sweet fruit, good balance, and a medium-long finish. Drink it over the next four years."

 Next stop was in Ken Wright's parking lot next door where I got what will be an etching when I am doe. Here is the image now. When I am done with it I will post it to show the end result.
We made a quick stop a Wildaire and we both loved the Clay Court Pinot Noir. Remarkable wine and worth the stop. Linda and I have bought bottles on each trip up and they don't last long. The wine is best described as plush, like a big overstuffed sofa with solid wood legs! You just want to lay down in it and let it engulf you. The nose really leaps out and grabs you with pie spices, dark ripe cherry, and big notes of hot blackberry pie. The first sip is almost a shock as you find a whole different pallet waiting for you, one of cherry compote and caramel with layer after layer of vanilla and creamy red berry. The finish is long and pleasing with just enough earthy, spicy mix to make you want another sip.
Last stop in Carton was at Troon. I felt I had to school her on the differences in the Oregon wine regions and this is one of the very best places to do it.
It was late so we hurried through a couple of sips, then Chelsea brought in the sign and the other folks, Paul Cronauer and his wife Sarah, tasted through a perfect collection of Southern Oregon wines.
 We got started with the '10 Dry Riesling. I love this wine and just thing Greg killed on this one. Bone dry with very complex minerality and gentle hints of stone fruit and white grape.
The reds are all good and interesting but one stands out as a must have, the 2007 Humbug Fire Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.  This one was done after the devastating fires down the in '07 and some of the proceeds go to fund the firemen. The smoke in this wine was like being next to a campfire! The fruit was like roasting berries on a stick and eating them while they were still warm. This is just an outstanding wine and should be shared.
Last stop of the day was at Nick's on Third Street in McMinnville for some ribs and a cheese plate.  Then  the long drive home and back to the studio.



 

 

Great Meal, Great Night at the Opera

Thursday  night Linda and I went to Portland for our usual foray in to the world of culture. We checked in to Modera to drop off our bags and head to dinner. What a pleasant surprise awaited us in the room.  They gave us a very nice bottle of wine and some Oregon hazelnuts with a sweet card, and they even comped the parking.
I very much like this hotel for a number of reasons. The restaurant, Nel Centro, is very good, and they make a terrific latte' in the morning. The location is perfect for the opera as it is only two blocks from Keller Auditorium, and for Nordstrom shopping . It is very affordable, friendly, and has great art (many works by my friend Bill Park).
The location has a storied past so a little history is in order.
I used to stay in what was the Portland Inn/Day’s Inn built in 1962, back when I was first back from Germany in the late 70's and trying to decide whether to live in Portland or Eugene. The last night I stayed their I was awoken by a pounding, screaming hooker, naked in the hallway, demanding her money from the old salesman across the hall. I chose Eugene and  I did not return to that building until Modera appeared.
Last night I again was awoken at 2:30am, this time by a screaming engine, likely one of those nitrous oxide enhanced racers, as it revved up, up, and up and...WHAM! No more noise. Ah, bliss.
But first, back to great food. We had tried Urban Farmer a few weeks ago and decided it was worth another try.
We were an odd couple, me with my meat only diet for that night and Linda, with her veggies only diet. The waiter was nonplussed but took us in stride. Linda had the roasted beets, truffled chestnut purée, orange, endive ,and Brussels sprouts, shallot jam, marcona almonds and a glass of Youngberg Hill '07 Pinot Noir. When a I ask "Which vineyard?", the waiter was a bit taken aback, but found out it was from the Natasha Block. Wonderful!
I allowed myself a Sapphire Martini and it was perfect with a grass-fed, grain finished 8oz sirloin.
The Opera was at the Newmark Theater as opposed to the Keller Auditorium, where we THOUGHT it was, so we went to the Keller and saw a sign that said "Billy Madison" and with 7 minutes left before curtain, we walked very fast up to Broadway and down to Main, in the door and to our seats with a minute to spare! Seven blocks in 6 minutes after a heavy meal and my heart did not stop! A good sign.
Both Operas, "The Spanish Hour", or "L'Heure Espagnole" and "The Bewitched Child" or "L'Enfant et les Sortileges", were each well presented and the staging was inventive and quite effective. I thought the end of "The Spanish Hour" was weak and it almost is as if the composer just ran out of ideas so he made it "clever". The other work was much more accomplished and very well done. The story is of a brat who destroys his room and in a dream is punished by all the items he has abused plus the forest beings that he has harmed in the past. he learns a much needed lesson.
This morning we drove out of Portland south in to a beautiful Spring day of sunshine and low traffic volume, went to Dundee for a latte' at Red Hills Market ,and then to Carlton Cellars to watch the end of the bottling run. Ghost Hill Cellars and Carlton Cellars were each hard at it and Rebecca, the winemaker for Ghost Hill, gave us a bottle of the new Pinot Blanc, which is absolutely perfect! I tasted some out of the tanks a few months ago and it was great then. Can't wait to crack it open.
One last stop to pick up an auction item from Republic of Jam in Carlton, a one year subscription to their Jam of the Moth Club, then home.
The perfect little vacation and a treat for the soul.

Carlton Cellars, Stone Wolf, and R.Stuart

Last night I had the pleasure of driving Amy Burton to the Portland airport for her quick flight to New York after her rehearsal with OMP . She performs Saturday and Sunday at the Hult Center with her husband,  John Musto . Driving back to Eugene at 10:00 did not seem practical so I went as far as Woodburn and stayed at a La Quinta Inn, watched TV, and got ready  for a nice day of driving and asking for wine.
Breakfast was at one of my favorite new places, Farm to Fork. I sat down to a plate of Almond Battered Brioche French Toast: Honey-Orange Poached Quince, Marcona Almonds, and Chantilly Cream and a side of BACON! A little orange juice and a Latte' and I was ready to take on the world, or at least go beg for "One Bottle" from some wineries. The waitress was so sweet and commented on one of the prints that I was signing while waiting for my food. I left her one as a gift. She was VERY happy and it made me feel glad that someone likes my work.
A very nice surprise came my way as I started gathering wines for the auction. Carlton Cellars' Dave Grooters and I talked at length about how people were underestimating the wonderful '07 Pinots and how a few wine writers who think Pinot is only good if you can stand a pencil up in it declare it a bad year and spoil the chances for people to taste a true Oregon Pinot with all the complexity of  a Burgundy! He turned and handed me a Magnum of his Gold Medal winning '07 Roads End Pinot Noir!

I visited Cana's Feast and Carlton Winemaker's Studio just for a taste and to visit friends, then off to Stone Wolf Winery , who I missed last year,where Jessica handed me a bottle of the Lindsay '02 Pinot Noir. Just amazing! I also got my cat fix from Frank, who adopted the winery and now rides the fork lifts and is the constant companion of one of the winemakers.

I stopped in to drop off a request at R.Stuart & Co. Wine Bar in downtown McMinniville and was greeted with a glass of the '07 Dry Riesling. Tremendously good. Bright clean taste with a hint of sugar and citrus in the nose and a smooth, soft mouth feel with a great range of classic Riesling notes.  Nicole presented a bottle of the '07 Autograph Pinot Noir, the top of their line!
I stopped at a couple of wineries on the way back to Eugene and left requests for One Bottle and will be back to hopefully collect in the next week.
A wonderful trip and great results!